Costa Rica

 

22^nd January – 6^th February 2006

 

 

Guide:  Paco Madrigal

 

The Group:  John Allcock                 Tony Critchley

Keith Corbett                Nigel Davis                           Gordon Ellis                Ian Ellis    

Dennis Heffernan        Craig Howat  

John Szczur             Jenny Swindells

John Wightman     

      

Day 1 – 21^st January.

 

The early hours of 21^st January found eight of the group setting off from a rather chilly Nottingham. It wasn’t long before the first bird of the trip flew across the M1 – a Barn Owl. We were soon at Heathrow, where we met up with Tony and John S. A quick change of planes in Madrid went smoothly enough, but the long haul flight to San Jose proved fairly taxing. A brief touch down at Guatemala provided our first two neotropical birds – Great-tailed Grackles and Black Vultures.

 

We eventually arrived in San Jose, with one small problem, Gordon’s baggage failed to appear. After lots of confusion the airline staff concluded that it was enjoying an unplanned holiday in Madrid. Luckily our party didn’t have to forbear an unwashed Gordon as Iberia has a policy of providing free bags of overnight toiletries. The fact that they only had women’s toiletry bags left failed to lift Gordon’s gloom and he had to settle for a promise from Iberia to ship out the bag to Golfito.

 

We were met outside the airport by Paco, and Carlos, who would be our driver for the duration of the trip. We then made our way through the darkness to the distinctly luxurious Hotel Bougainvillea, once there we met up with the final member of the group: John A. who had arrived from Hong Kong.  John had arrived a good 10 hours previously and had already bagged 20 lifers in the hotel garden. Carlos and Paco then set off overnight on the tortuous route to Golfito, with the majority of our luggage. Apparently the plane we were due to take in the morning has nowhere near enough room to cope with our luggage.

 

Day 2 – 22^nd January. Golfito / Las Cruces

 

We were up early but perhaps not so bright for a 4 am drive down to the airport. After successfully ignoring the dawn chorus of a House Sparrow, we climbed into the tiny 12 seater plane heading for Golfito in the pacific south west of Costa Rica. The flight was truly breathtaking as it went over the peaks bordering the central valley and then down the pacific coast dominated by mangroves and lowland forest. The best was saved till last as our plane banked in off the coast at canopy level to land on a tiny strip cut into the forest.

 

As our group deplaned it became obvious that we were in the midst of an overwhelming selection of birds in the forest surrounding the runway. We were treated almost immediately to such classic species as Chestnut-mandibled Toucan, White-crowned Parrots and best of all a Scarlet Macaw giving close flight and perched views. Hard as it was, we tore ourselves away in order to get to our l destination. However a breakfast stop wasn’t too bad either with several Magnificent Frigatebirds and an adult King Vulture setting the pulses racing until we set off uphill towards Las Cruces. Of course we made a couple of further stops along the way. First Paco spotted two Brown-throated Parakeets, which is a new arrival from Panama into Costa Rica and a lifer for everyone, Paco included. A second stop was for a small colony of Crested Oropendolas which are also recent arrivals to the country and not illustrated in the field guide. Another stop further up the road was initially for some stunning Swallow-tailed Kites and turned out to be quite fortuitous as a calling Black Hawk-Eagle soared in and out of the clouds, and a small flock along the roadside yielded an Olivaceous Piculet and several species of American wood warbler. We arrived at the Wilson Botanical Gardens at Las Cruces for lunch, which was interrupted by a beautiful White Hawk soaring over the forest.

 

After lunch we headed off into the forest and we weren’t far into the trees when Paco spotted some movement on the ground – Marbled Wood-quails! We all got superb views of four of these shy birds. Other birds seen in the afternoon included several Speckled Tanagers, our first hummingbirds including Snowy-bellied and Charming, with a supporting cast including Spot-crowned Euphonias and a brief Streaked Saltator. The fourth species of woodcreeper of the afternoon – an Olivaceous – was spotted by Jenny. An awesome first day wasn’t finished until after dinner as a brilliant Mottled Owl was spotlighted at point blank range.

 

 

Day 3 – 23^rd January. Las Cruces / San Vito / Esquinas

 

We were up for the soon to become standard 5 am start, which for most of the group wasn’t quite early enough as Paco and Gordon, who were out a few minutes before the rest of us watched a Short-tailed Nighthawk hunting around our cabins. We set off round the grounds with one particular bird in mind. We were quickly distracted however by a Grey-necked Wood-rail showing out in the open and a wonderful Black-faced Antthrush called in by Paco. We reached a suitable vantage point for our target bird and after a painful wait Nige came up with goods. He had spotted a stunning Turquoise Cotinga at such a huge range the bird could well have been in Panama. Perhaps not the views we were hoping for of this Chiriqui endemic but its dazzling blue colour and the deep purple belly were certainly visible. A Scaled Pigeon was spotted at a similar range but several Fiery-billed Aracaris and Crested Guans allowed far closer inspection.

 

It was time to leave Las Cruces after breakfast and a stop near San Vito produced an excellent pair of Masked Ducks and a Double-toothed Kite although Chriqui Yellowthroats were nowhere to be found. We headed back down to the Pacific lowlands to Las Esquinas Lodge scoring several Red-breasted Blackbirds and Blue Ground-dove along the access track. However the most anticipated sighting was present at the lodge itself – Gordon’s bag had made it, producing expressions of relief and excitement to rival seeing the cotinga earlier in the day! We were joined at lunch by a Long-tailed Hermit feeding on insects inside the restaurant which also held many roosting White-lined Bats. Meanwhile John A spotted an excellent female Baird’s Trogon during dessert.

 

After lunch we got to grips with Slaty-tailed Trogon, Rufous and Riverside Wrens, all three species of honeycreeper, Laughing Falcon and Golden-naped Woodpecker. Momentary confusion was caused when John S shouted “Hornbill!” as a rather toucan-like bird flew over. John was of course gently informed what continent he found himself in. Before dinner several pale-phased terrestrial mammal spp. were spotted using a convenient water body close to our cabins.

 

 

Day 4 – 24^th January. Esquinas / La Gambas

 

We met the local guide (name??) and a Ruddy Quail-dove on the access road bright and early and headed for the Riverbed Trail. Almost immediately we were amongst an Orange-collared Manakin lek, with several of these birds produced amazing firecracker like noises with their wings. A predictably difficult White-throated Crake was eventually seen well by just about everyone, well apart from Craig that is. A Great Currasow was to provide even more frustration as despite giving out its bizarre bovine like call for a long period it refused to approach the group of birders trying to impersonate a cow – badly. Soon more new birds came thick and fast, Black-cheeked Ant-tanagers were the main quarry and an excitable pair of this very localised endemic gave great views. An excellent mixed flock revealed Black-bellied Wren, Dot-winged Antwren, Northern Bentbill, Long-billed Gnatwren and Plain Xenops amongst others.

 

After breakfast we returned to the trail, the birding was slower but some superb birds were found including Striped Woodhaunter, White-whiskered Puffbird and Eyeringed Flatbill. Gordon decided there was nothing to lose in playing a quick blast of a recording of Black-striped Woodcreeper and amazingly within seconds, an individual of probably the best looking woodcreeeper in Costa Rica flew into a tree right above us! A relaxing lunchtime was rudely interrupted when Gordon and Ian found a Rufous Piha behind the swimming pool. A hardcore (or foolhardy) few then continued into the forest in the heat of the day only picking up a male Red-capped Manakin for their efforts. As the bedraggled group made it out of the forest they could easily have been mistaken for men that had been lost for weeks (or in Tony’s case years).

 

The afternoon session was spent along the access road with excellent birds which are generally confined to the southwest in Costa Rica such as Fork-tailed Flycatcher, Pale-breasted Spinetail and Ruddy-breasted and Yellow-bellied Seedeaters being seen. A Streaked Saltator showed well allowing everyone to catch this one up, while John W spotted a Grey-crowned Yellowthroat. However, a ridiculously close flock of Costa Rican Swifts at eye level was probably the highlight.

 

After dinner Paco decided we should tear Dennis away from his pina coladas and try for some nocturnal birds. A calling Spectacled Owl gave us the slip by the lodge, but close pair of Common Potoo’s on fence posts in La Gambas village were well appreciated. Their hilarious Clanger-like call only enhanced their status as bird of the day.

 

Day 5 – 25^th January. Esquinas / El Brujo / Vista Del Valle / Cerro De La Muerte

 

The last session at Esquinas went out with a bang when a pair of rather agitated Spectacled Owls were found behind the cabins, making up for and more, for the frustration the night before. Also added to the list were a pair of Great Antshrikes and Craig had another chance to miss White-throated Crake.

After breakfast we set off northwards and we hadn’t got far when Carlos spotted a perched White Hawk, a bird you could never get tired of seeing. When stopping for petrol in El Brujo Gordon ignored the advice that a bird on a wire was a Tropical Kingbird (observers name withheld) to shout “it’s a Pearl Kite!”. This beautiful raptor is a recent arrival into Costa Rica and was Paco’s second lifer of the trip.

 

 

A further stop at a much higher altitude at Vista Del Valle did not produce the hoped for Scaled Antpitta, but we saw its nest which is just about good enough, right? Two Blue-throated Toucanets were of at least some compensation. It was quickly time to continue heading ‘uphill’ to Cerro de la Muerte which we reached in the last half hour of daylight by virtue of some excellent driving from Carlos. We quickly got superb views of Volcano Junco, but the other paramo specialist, Timberline Wren was much more difficult, although two were seen briefly. On the drive down from the “Mountain of Death” John W tried desperately to avoid developing septicaemia / gangrene in a flesh wound by reaching for his extensive medical supplies at the back of the bus. Unfortunately this ‘coincided’ with the nearby cool box falling off the seat and causing a mini-tsunami of ice and water within the bus. 

 

Day 6 – 26^th January. Savegre

 

We didn’t go far for our pre-breakfast session as we walked around the lodge in beautifully temperate conditions. There were many new hummingbirds on the feeders including Magnificent, Grey-tailed Mountain-gem and the tiny Volcano and Scintillant Hummingbirds. A Slaty Flowerpiercer was seen, well, piercing flowers and a wonderful group of Sulphur-winged Parakeets were eating apples in the orchard. A major highlight was an awesome Tayra, a large mustelid which was seen climbing a tree. Paco then found the big one - a Resplendent Quetzal – impressive as it was it was only a female. Now where was the male?

 

After breakfast we travelled up the steep track to Los Robles (the oaks) by the means of a truck normally used for carrying apples. After being thrown about remorselessly, only Keith was heard to describe the journey as ‘a thrill’. The birding was excellent in the forest with a covey of Spotted Wood-quail seen at close range, several stunning Flame-throated Warblers and a mixed flock where we gleaned Yellow-thighed and Large-footed Finches and Streak-breasted Treehunter amongst others. One of our main targets Costa Rican Pygmy-owl, was heard calling several times but frustratingly refused to respond to the tape. Just when we were about to give up Paco brilliantly spotted our target high up in a tree. Superb views were had of this diminutive and localised resident of the highlands.

 

The afternoon was spent along the access road where we stumbled across an excellent flock which produced birds such as Buffy Tuftedcheek, Ruddy Treerunner, Black-cheeked Warbler and several Hairy Woodpeckers. Two ridiculously bright Golden-browed Chlorophonias were spotted by John A, but the biggest surprise was a flock of 27 Barred Parakeets that gave a couple of flypasts. This species is far more often heard than seen due to its tendency of flying at extreme heights. The highlight, however, was prpbably a pair of Resplendent Quetzal’s found feeding in a low roadside tree and giving stunning views.

 

After yet another excellent meal, despite the weather looking less than perfect we made an attempt at nightbirding. As we got out of the bus on the hillside we found that the weather was indeed far less than perfect and could easily be described as horrendous. Not surprisingly no Unspotted Saw-whet Owl stirred in the darkness. Further down into the valley we gave it one more go and amazingly a Dusky Nightjar immediately reacted, nearly decapitating several of us. We had amazing views of the bird spotlighted on a nearby wire before it flew off struggling in the wind.

 

Day 7 – 27^th January. Savegre / Finca Mirador Des Quetzales / Cartago / Orotina

 

The weather had hardly improved when we woke up and the hardy few who made it out pre-breakfast had only a Golden-bellied Flycatcher to show for their efforts, although the (presumably) same flock of Barred Parakeets gave another flypast. Saying goodbye to the superb Savegre Lodge, we headed up to Finca Mirador De Quetzales more in hope than in expectation that we would see any of over remaining highland targets. If anything the weather was even worse at the farm, but we gave it a go regardless. Amazingly we had then had a quite brilliant 45 minutes or so of birding  - first came several Fiery-throated Hummingbirds after Paco imitated a Pygmy-Owl, then a Black Guan, a flock of at least 30 Spangle-cheeked Tanagers which also yielded a pair of Black-and-yellow Silky-flycatchers. The best of all was a 10 minute spell when we got stunning views of the two master skulkers confined to these altitudes – first a male Silvery-fronted Tapaculo gave its best mouse impression then a fantastic Zeledonia remained in full view for several minutes. The effort in the mud and rain had paid off.

 

Heading down towards San Jose the weather predictably changed for the better and a quick stop near Cartago where John S flushed out a Sedge Wren

 

 and an amazing pale phase Short-tailed Hawk swooped to catch some prey only yards from where we were standing. The next stop was Orotina, a small town the opposite side of San Jose. The town square is a well known stake out for Black-and-white Owl which was pointed out to us roosting in a tree by some friendly locals. Great views were had of what is surely one of the best looking neotropical owls. Also present were a couple of Hoffmans Two-toed Sloths, which somehow have taken it upon themselves to be confined to this town park. It was then onto our next base – Villa Lapas, set in lowland forest close to the Pacific coast. It was a return to humid climes and also a return to cocktail drinking. Dennis was ecstatic to find out that pina coladas were included in the room price.

 

Day 8 – 28^th January. Carara NP / Villa Lapas / Jaco

 

In a dramatic contrast to the previous mornings wind and rain, we woke up to the pacific lowlands with weather that only got hotter and more humid as the day progressed. We made it to the entrance of the River Trail at Carara National Park at first light, which was immediately busy with birds – Black-hooded Antshrikes and Dusky Antbirds were amongst the most obvious. There was no contest for the star bird of the morning – a superb adult male Three-wattled Bellbird, which Paco tracked down just off the trail. We watched the bird for nearly 20 minutes repeatedly letting out its far carrying clanging call.

                                                          

 

 

 

 More new birds were coming thick and fast with highlights being a male Northern Royal Flycatcher, Lineated and Rufous-winged Woodpeckers, Lesser Swallow-tailed Swift, Tawny-winged Woodcreeper and two confiding pairs of Rufous-tailed Jacamars.

 

By lunch the heat hat got to a few members of the group so we returned for a siesta, although a Ferruginous Pygmy-owl showing brilliantly in front of our rooms raised plenty of enthusiasm.

 

 The afternoon was spent on the headquarters trail at Carara, where it was still a bit of a struggle particularly for Nigel and Ian, who stumbled through in a bit of a daze. Fortunately Jenny hit a superb run of form picking up a Ruddy-tailed Flycatcher and a brilliant pair of Golden-crowned Spadebills. A small flock produced many Chestnut-backed and at least four Bicoloured Antbirds, a Black-faced Antthrush and for a lucky few, a couple of Grey-headed Tanagers. A Muscovy Duck flushed from the river in the forest was a welcome surprise. Well over 100 species were seen in Carara over the day – an exhaustingly excellent days birding.

 

A nightbird session around the nearby town of Jaco produced excellent views of Pauraque, a brief Striped Owl. 

 

Day 9 – 29^th January. Villa Lapas / Playa Azul

 

The early morning was spent walking the track on the hillside above Villa Lapas, which provided great views across to the Pacific and some excellent birds. There were good numbers of Fiery-billed Aracaris, Chestnut-mandibled Toucans and excellent numbers of North American migrants including Western Tanagers, Ovenbird, Indigo Bunting and a surprise Magnolia Warbler.

 

Next stop was Playa Azul for mangrove specialties. Within minutes we were fortunate to pick up a female Mangrove Hummingbird feeding on roadside flowers – this often elusive species was our second Costa Rican endemic of the trip. A mixed flock in the mangroves revealed a Mangrove Vireo, Panama Flycatcher, Scrub Greenlet and several glowing Prothonotary Warblers. While watching waders from the porch of the nearby Tarcol Lodge John A picked out a Zone-tailed Hawk doing its best Turkey Vulture impression.

 

At Tarcol Bridge we skilfully avoided being hit by the volume of holiday traffic and deflected into the waiting jaws of several huge Central American Crocodiles waiting beneath. Only John S stuck it out though and called us back to see our target species - a superb adult Collared Plover that had 3 well grown chicks.

 

Back at Villa Lapas after lunch we walked the trails of the lodge looking for Streak-chested Antpitta and Long-tailed Manakin. The antpitta avoided us like only antpittas can do, however we were rewarded with stunning views of two male Long-tailed Manakins. Other notable birds were Slaty Antwren, 2 Painted Buntings and a brief Kentucky Warbler. We also finally got good views of Blue-throated Goldentail by virtue of Craig – this was a hummingbird that had given only frustratingly brief views until now. A fitting end to the day was the site of two Scarlet Macaws which decided to come into the Villa Lapas grounds to roost.

 

 

Day 10 – 30^th January. Villa Lapas / Hacienda  Solimar / Las Salinas De Colorado

 

After a final Villa Lapas breakfast we travelled northwards up the pacific coast through the dry, arid region of Guanacaste. The first new bird was a soaring Harris’ Hawk and then a small roadside pond produced 23 Least Grebes and a Solitary Sandpiper. After reaching Hacienda Solimar we went on a pre-lunch walk with the local guide, Dimitrio. Some species typical of dry forests came easily and included Banded Wren, Cinnamon Hummingbird, White-lored Gnatctacher, Olive Sparrows and Streak-backed Oriole. Quite predictably Lesser Ground-cuckoo took a little bit more work, but after a bit of perseverance we were treated to wonderful close views of this awesome bird.

 

Dimitrio then led us on a trip out of the Solimar grounds to the Las Salinas De Colorado. These salt pans were teeming with shorebirds including Marbled Godwits, Short-billed Dowitchers, Western, Least and Semi-palmated Sandpipers and many Willet. A large flock of Royal Terns and Black Skimmers on closer inspection held several Gull-billed and Sandwich Terns and also a single Elegant Tern. At this point the heat started to take its toll again and we travelled back via a local beer ‘shop’ – quickly bypassing local children trying to encourage us to watch some cock fighting, we achieved our goal in packing the cool box with many cans of Imperial. On the journey back to Solimar Ian won a round of beer from Paco by spotting a pair of Double-striped Thick-knees, while also turning several clumps of earth into a small covey of Spot-bellied Bobwhite.

 

Beyond the lodge Dimitrio then led us to one of the true spectacles of the holiday. First was a nest holding an adult and two young Jabiru. Even at the distance the nest was at, the sheer size of the adult was impressive.

Then we progressed onto some marshy fields which were covered in waterbirds – over 300 Wood Storks and 50 Limpkins were present along with many herons, Black-bellied and Fulvous Whistling-ducks and a few Muscovy Ducks. The highlight was again Jabiru – two imperious adults were watched at close range from the bus. Snail Kites sauntered around us while a crocodile refused to get out of the way of the bus as we tried to get across a ford on the road. Oh and I forgot the beautiful Spot-breasted Orioles in the nearby trees. Incredible  stuff.  Things weren’t finished though – as we drove back to the lodge many Yellow-naped Parrots came into roost and a Pacific Screech-owl was spotlighted in the garden.

 

Day 11 – 31^st January. Hacienda Solimar / Arenal Observatory Lodge

 

Up before first light again, in the company of Dimitrio we visited a different section of dry forest soon picking up Scrub Euphonia and Grey-headed Kite near the bus. Within the gallery forest a White-necked Puffbird had the honour of being our 400^th bird of the trip. Thereafter though things got a tougher; a roosting pair of Spectacled Owls were well appreciated and after Craig had recorded his customary shaky video shot he strolled round the corner to find a Thicket Tinamou on the trail. Although the bird called several times only metres away no one else could get on to it. A very vocal Collared Forest-falcon then also made it onto the ‘so near yet so far’ list when Dimitrio spotted it in the crown of a tree, ensuring a rapid dash through the tall grass. Tony quickly succumbed to the terrain gashing his elbow. Most of the other participants carefully jumped over his stricken form only to find that his desperate cries of agony had seemingly flushed the falcon.

 

We left Guanacaste and on to the tortuous route around Lake Arenal, which was enlivened by the bizarre sight of a flock of Anhingas soaring on thermals. As well as the condition of the road, the weather was also deteriorating. Arriving at Arenal Lodge things were definitely on the damp side. In a brief respite we quickly added 3 new species of wren including the superb Black-throated. Suddenly the rain then got turned up to 11. Game over.

 

Tinamou apart, the major dip of the day was Arenal Volcano, which was altogether elusive in the poor conditions. However, it did go down as a ‘heard’ due to the several threatening rumbles that emanated from somewhere within the cloud. This of course only encouraged Dennis and Craig to sample the ‘lava flow’ cocktail in the bar.

 

Day 12 – 1^st February. Arenal Observatory Lodge / Fortuna

 

We woke up expecting the worst but miraculously the rain had lifted, so we quickly hit the waterfall trail. Calling Thicket Antpittas frustrated us but there was plenty of other action to focus on, including an excellent perched Semi-plumbeous Hawk, Streak-crowned Antvireo and several stunning and confiding Spotted Antbirds. Heading back to breakfast a male Black-crested Coquette was feeding in the garden. This amazing bird was voted hummer of the trip so far. After breakfast we were straight back on the trail and if anything activity had picked up; we spent half an hour watching a mixed feeding group which revealed Bicoloured and Spotted Antbirds, Rufous Motmot, Olive Tanagers and Buff-throated Foliage-gleaner amongst others. Other new birds further along the trail were Black-and-white Becard, Black-headed Nightingale-thrush and amazing views of Song Wren (although pride of place has to got to go to its totally ridiculous song).

 

Back for lunch we were treated to the hordes of birds visiting the feeders outside the restaurant, which included Hepatic Tanager. Also observed were boulders tumbling down the side of the volcano which was now showing well, as was Craig’s voracious appetite, which mirrored the spectacle of the flock of Montezuma Oropendolas devouring bananas outside. A mystery Dendroica warbler that was observed in the rain the previous day was also still present and a lengthy discussion concluded that it was a Blackpoll – a rarity in Costa Rica.

 

After lunch we covered sections of the peninsula road, with a couple of fairly unrealistic target species in mind. Sometimes miracles do happen and in the space of a couple of minutes we had seen a pair of brilliant Bare-crowned Antbirds and a stupidly rare Keel-billed Motmot. Amongst the excitement a Broad-billed Motmot and Band-backed Wren were pretty much ignored. Things almost came unstuck though, when Dennis timed his daily fall to coincide with the critical moment when the antbirds were about to show. Fortunately he only took Keith down with him and eventually everyone got on  to the birds. The motmot is listed as ‘Vulnerable’ by BirdLife International and is regularly seen at only a handful of places on earth. Awesome stuff.

 

Down the road in Fortuna we got to grips with pairs of Southern Lapwing and Tropical Mockingbird, which while not rare in global terms, but have only recently been recorded in Costa Rica.

 

In celebration the Cocktail List hit new heights in the evening, with new sightings including a ‘White Hawk’ and champage all round to celebrate the day.

 

Day 13 – 2^nd February. Arenal Observatory Lodge / Mirador De Colibris / La Paz Waterfall Gardens / La Virgen Del Socorro

 

Our final morning at Arenal resembled how it was when we arrived – rain. We were therefore very grateful for the previous days conditions. We did have one thing in mind though – Mission Thicket Antpitta. Yet again many were heard though one bird gave itself up to around half of the group.

 

With no time to waste we quickly travelled on to the Caribbean slope, with a few stops along the way before we reached our lowland destination. The first was the Mirador de Colibri’s Café, where although there were not as many hummers about as we had hoped, we got excellent views of the final mainland Costa Rican endemic – Coppery-headed Emerald. Other new birds included Brown Violet-ear, Green-crowned Brilliant, Sooty-faced Finch and both Red-headed and Prong-billed Barbets. Then it was up the hill to the increasingly commercial La Paz Waterfalls – where the normally nailed on Black-bellied Hummingbirds gave us the slip. Compensatory birds took the form of Purple-throated Mountain-gem and Slaty-backed Nightingale-thrush. Compensatory measures for John W and Jenny took the form of the ubiquitous souvenir shops.

At the base of the waterfall outside of the gardens Paco spotted a Green-fronted Lancebill which was amazingly flycatching from a rock in the middle of the rushing water! A quick final stop was a La Virgen del Soccoro where we got views of a female Immaculate Antbird, Spotted Barbtail, Smoky-brown Woodpecker and some close Collared Trogons.

 

 

Day 14 – 3^rd February. La Selva / Selva Verde

 

The majority of the today was spent at the famous La Selva research station. The entrance track alone was stunning – Yellow-tailed Oriole, pairs of both Chestnut-coloured and Cinnamon Woodpeckers and best of all a male Snowy Cotinga. At the field station we were joined by the OTS guide Rodolfo who gave us the news that Sungrebe had been seen 3 days ago and tantalisingly, an umbrellabird only 2 days ago. A check of the river produced no sign of Sungrebe – so far so predictable. However, we were soon watching a excellent pair of Tiny Hawks giving unprecedented prolonged perched views and Rodolfo tracked down a Slaty-breasted Tinamou that silently walked ahead of us by the trail. We then started the hunt for our main quarry and as time ticked on all we had for our efforts was a Semi-plumbeous Hawk. Just as defeat seemed unavoidable Paco whispered “I see it!” – and there it was, just 20 metres away perched at eye level – a male Bare-necked Umbrellabird. A truly memorable bird that none of us had expected to see.

 

Back at Selva Verde for lunch, Gordon quickly tracked down one of the resident Sunbitterns along the river and we were then later treated to amazing views of a Streak-chested Antpitta. On the way back to La Selva a Bat Falcon was watched perched by the roadside. Within the field Station a Little Tinamou gave us the runaround for the best part of an hour, only brief flight views and silhouettes of a small chicken-type bird were as good as it got. As dusk fell we waited on the suspension bridge over the river and before long we were joined by a Short-tailed Nighthawk feeding bat like around the trees. A nightbird hunt produced a brief Mottled Owl and an out of sight calling Vermiculated Screech-owl but nothing else of note (including snakes, thankfully).

 

Day 15 – 4^th February. Selva Verde / La Selva / El Tigre Marsh

 

The pre-breakfast session within the forest surrounding the bungalows at Selva Verde got off to a late start due to some oversleeping on someone’s behalf (mentioning no names…Nige). This proved to be a fatal error as while waiting for the rest of the group some of the bungalow residents, were treated to a flyover of two absolutely huge Great Green Macaws. Although of little consolation the bungalow ‘front garden’ held an excellent selection of North American migrants including Willow Flycatcher, Wood Thrush, two Kentucky, male Hooded and Golden-winged Warblers.

 

It was then back to La Selva to try and clear up on any species we missed the previous day. The bogey bird of the trip so far had clearly been Green Shrike-vireo, which we had heard on numerous days in several locations. Despite extensive scans through canopies and repeated playback of a tape, it was quite frankly getting embarrassing that we hadn’t even had a glimpse. However, just over the suspension bridge at La Selva, Paco did the trick when spotting a superb Shrike-vireo just 10m off the ground following a flock of Black-faced Grosbeaks. Relief! Despite this early success La Selva was strangely quiet and we were struggling with Antshrikes in particular. We eventually scored a pair of Western Slaty-Antshrikes but Fasciated were unusually keeping out of sight. Back for lunch at Selva Verde there was more last minute relief for Tony, Nige and John S (who missed the previous days bird), when a Snowy Cotinga appeared by the bus as we were loading luggage.

 

The afternoon involved a drastic change of habitat with a visit to El Tigre Marsh. Wellies were the order of the day. Unfortunately Keith and John W weren’t too quick off the mark and were left with some rather comical boots which barely went over their ankles.

 

At the marsh we were quickly onto many Nicaraguan Seedfinches with their daft pink bills and also several Green Ibis in the trees. Suddenly a fantastic Pinnated Bittern was flushed and gave good flight views. We were soon past the magical 500 for the trip when a pair of Olive-crowned Yellowthroats appeared. Craig also got his just rewards for his now long standing crake frustration, when a White-throated Crake was caught exposed on a ditch bank. Synchronised panic by both the bird and Craig ensured that a fine spectacle was on display. Happy with our achievements we got a bit blasé about the correct route back to the bus and quite predictably, pungent mud was quickly flowing into Keith’s boots. Ian of course, found this highly amusing and distracted by laughter unfortunately found himself sunk down into 3 feet of mud.

 

After dinner Paco led us on a night walk around Selva Verde hoping for a Great Potoo. To the concern of some this took us in pitch black darkness along the Fer De Lance trail. No birds were seen, which is perhaps unsurprising when someone twitchily flashes his torch light at his feet every 5 seconds.

 

 

Day 16 – Selva Verde / El Gavilan Lodge / Braulio Carillo NP / Hotel Bougainvillea

 

Heavy rain the previous afternoon had the realists among us concluding that the Great Green Macaws would have roosted somewhere near Braulio and would not return over the lodge this morning. Despite this a hardy few staked out a suitable position at 0600 on the dot. Miraculously there they came squawking over the canopy at precisely the same time as yesterday morning. Just rewards for putting in the effort or extreme luck?!

 

We were then quickly back on the road, stopping quickly at El Gavilan Lodge where Central American Pygmy-owl called but refused to show and so prevented us from completing the Pygmy-owl set. Although in time added on, Nige spotted a last ditch Chestnut-headed Oropendola amongst the Montezuma’s. It was then on to Braulio Carillo National Park, which consists of an excellent extent of mid-elevation forest. A first roadside stop was actually an old fruit farm which attracts many hummingbirds. The highlight was a cracking male Snowcap picked up by Craig, whilst also present were a male Blue-chested Hummingbird, Bronze-tailed Plumeleteer and Green Thorntail. The trail at the ranger station proved slow going although we were picking up some great birds – an immature Ornate Hawk-eagle soared over the canopy, then a mixed flock caused some excitement. Ian first picked up a gaudy Blue-and-gold Tanager but his rather poor directions consisted of “erm well, its in the tree..” or something to that effect. Fortunately John S soon picked it up amongst several Black-and-yellow Tanagers. The trail at this point was narrow causing a few viewing difficulties. The strain of a long trip was obviously taking it toll and tempers were frayed. One of the most memorable quote at this point included “It’s only a Baltimore Oriole you tw@t!”.  Calming down, a female Lattice-tailed Trogon showed well and a lower down flock held Tawny-crested Tanagers, Ashy-throated Bush Tanager (for John A at least) and Cinnamon Woodpecker. With the skies darkening we tried the trail across the road, which produced a quality male White-crowned Manakin but little else. Ian and John strolled back hoping to pick up some other goodies when they suddenly realised everyone else had retreated to the bus. So possibly prematurely we traded primary rainforest for a garden in San Jose.

 

The grounds at Hotel Bougainvillea are no ordinary gardens however – both Prevosts and White-eared Ground Sparrows, Greyish Saltator and Melodious Blackbird were new trip birds. The luxury of the hotel wasn’t appreciated as much as it could have been though – it was quickly discovered that the bar was closed due to some bizarre clause in the electoral code that prevents the sale of alcohol during the general elections which had started today. Not even the offer of $100 could shift the barman, so Fanta it was for our last night in Costa Rica.

 

 

Day 17 – Hotel Bougainvillea / Volcan Barva

 

Our last morning and John A left early for his flight back to Hong Kong via LA. Four surprise Chimney Swifts flew over the hotel and we then travelled up to the slopes of Volcan Barva. We had excellent views of several highland species including Scintillant and Volcano Hummingbirds, Flame-coloured Tanager and Yellowish Flycatcher. Best of all were a pair of Chestnut-capped Brushfinches which were new for the trip. A perched accipiter proved unidentifiable through the foliage, while a calling Orange-billed Nightingale-thrush remained hidden. We then relaxed on the porch of Paco’s house with spectacular views over the valley below.

 

A smooth journey home involved a stop over in Panama airport where there were several potential cocktail lifers on the menu. We were soon stopped in our tracks when the waiter only offered “beer, beer, beer”, which turned out to be a brand called Soberana. What an anti-climax!

 

 

Many thanks to everyone, especially Paco and Carlos, for contributing to such a successful and fun trip. The final species total reached a staggering 514 species seen with 4 other species being “single observer records”. Twelve other species were “heard only’s”.

 

Trip List

 

Bold=Endemic

C=Common

 

	Species	Scientific Name	Days /17	High Count	Total Count
1	Great Tinamou	Tinamous major	1	1	1
2	Little Tinamou	Crypterellus soui	1	2	2
3	Slaty-breasted Tinamou	Crypterellus boucardi	1	1	1
4	Least Grebe	Tachybaptus dominicus	1	22	22
5	Brown Pelican	Pelecanus occidentalis	3	200	244
6	Olivaceous Cormorant	Phalacrocorax brasilianus	5	30	65
7	Anhinga	Anhinga anhinga	4	30	41
8	Magnificent Frigatebird	Fregata magnificens	3	25	51
9	Great Blue Heron	Ardea herodias	5	25	29
10	Great Egret	Ardea alba	7	100	130
11	Tricoloured Heron	Egretta tricolour	3	3	5
12	Little Blue Heron	Egretta caerulea	11	5	23
13	Snowy Egret	Egretta thula	7	15	35
14	Cattle Egret	Bubulcus ibis	13	C	C
15	Green Heron	Butorides virescens	5	2	8
16	Black-crowned Night Heron	Nycticorax nycticorax	1	6	6
17	Yellow-crowned Night Heron	Nyctanassa violacea	1	3	3
18	Boat-billed Heron	Cochlearius cochlearia	1	4	4
19	Bare-throated Tiger-heron	Tigrisoma mexicanum	4	20	24
20	Fasciated Tiger-heron	Tigrisoma fasciatum	2	1	2
21	Pinnated Bittern	Botaurus pinnatus	1	1	1
22	Wood Stork	Mycteria americana	3	350	380
23	Jabiru	Jabiru mycteria	1	5	5
24	Green Ibis	Mesembrinibus cayennensis	1	5	5
25	White Ibis	Eudocimus albus	6	30	75
26	Roseate Spoonbill	Ajaja ajaja	2	6	8
27	Fulvous Whistling-duck	Dendrocygna bilcolor	1	1	1
28	Black-bellied Whistling-duck	Dendrocygna autummnalis	1	400	400
29	Muscovy Duck	Cairina moschata	2	2	3
30	Blue-winged Teal	Anas discors	2	18	28
31	Masked Duck	Oxyura dominica	1	2	2
32	Black Vulture	Coragyps atratus	17	C	C
33	Turkey Vulture	Cathartes aura	17	C	C
34	King Vulture	Sarcoramphus papa	3	3	5
35	Osprey	Pandion haliaetus	5	2	7
36	Grey-headed Kite	Leptodon cayenensis	3	3	5
37	American Swallow-tailed Kite	Elanoided forficatus	6	15	35
38	Pearl Kite	Gampsonyx swainsonii	1	1	1
39	White-tailed Kite	Elanus leucurus	5	3	10
40	Snail Kite	Rostrhamus sociabilis	1	5	5
41	Double-toothed Kite	Harpagus bidentatus	1	1	1
42	Plumbeous Kite	Ictinia plumbea	1	2	2
43	Tiny Hawk	Accipiter superciliosus	1	2	2
44	Semiplumbeous Hawk	Leucopternis semiplumbeus	2	1	2
45	White Hawk	Leucopternis albicollis	2	1	2
46	Mangrove Black-hawk	Buteogallus subtitles	1	4	4
47	Harris’ Hawk	Parabuteo unicinctus	1	3	3
48	Grey Hawk	Buteo nitidus	6	5	14
49	Roadside Hawk	Buteo magnirostris	5	3	11
50	Broad-winged Hawk	Buteo platypterus	6	2	9
51	Short-tailed Hawk	Buteo brachyurus	5	2	6
52	Zone-tailed Hawk	Buteo albontatus	1	1	1
53	Red-tailed Hawk	Buteo jamaicensis	2	4	5
54	Black Hawk-eagle	Spizaetus tyrannus	1	1	1
55	Ornate Hawk-eagle	Spizaetus ornatus	1	1	1
56	Crested Caracara	Plancus cheriway	5	5	11
57	Yellow-headed Caracara	Milvago chimachima	6	4	10
58	Laughing Falcon	Herpetotheres cachinnans	5	1	5
59	Merlin	Falco columbarius	1	1	1
60	Bat Falcon	Falco rufigularis	1	1	1
61	Peregrine Falcon	Falco peregrinus	2	1	1
62	Grey-headed Chachalaca	Ortalis cinereiceps	4	5	18
63	Crested Guan	Penelope purpurascens	6	9	27
64	Black Guan	Chamaepetes unicolor	2	3	4
65	Spot-bellied Bobwhite	Colinus leucopogon	1	3	3
66	Marbled Wood-quail	Odontophorus gujanensis	1	4	4
67	Spotted Wood-quail	Odontophorus erythrops	1	7	7
68	Limpkin	Aramus guarauna	1	45	45
69	White-throated Crake	Latterallus algigularis	2	1	2
70	Grey-necked Wood-rail	Aramides cajanea	2	2	3
71	American Purple Gallinule	Porphyrula martinica	1	6	6
72	Common Moorhen	Gallinula chloropus	1	4	4
73	Sunbittern	Eurypyga helias	3	2	5
74	Northern Jacana	Jacana spinosa	9	40	61
75	Black-necked Stilt	Himantopus mexicanus	3	156	156
76	Double-striped Thick-knee	Burhinus bistriatus	1	2	2
77	Southern Lapwing	Vanellus chilensis	1	2	2
78	Grey Plover	Pluvialis squatarola	2	100	105
79	Semi-palmated Plover	Charadrius semipalmatus	2	6	9
80	Killdeer	Charadrius vociferus	1	1	1
81	Collared Plover	Charadrius collaris	1	4	4
82	Wilson’s Snipe	Gallinago delicate	1	3	3
83	Short-billed Dowitcher	Limodromnus griseus	1	80	80
84	Marbled Godwit	Limosa fedoa	1	6	6
85	Whimbrel	Numenius phaeopus	2	50	56
86	Greater Yellowlegs	Tringa melanoleuca	1	1	1
87	Lesser Yellowlegs	Tringa flavipes	1	5	5
88	Solitary Sandpiper	Tringa solitaria	2	2	3
89	Spotted Sandpiper	Actitis macularia	5	10	20
90	Willet	Catoptrophorus semipalmatus	2	100	107
91	Ruddy Turnstone	Arenaria interpres	3	35	48
92	Semi-palmated Sandpiper	Calidris pusilla	2	50	51
93	Western Sandpiper	Calidris mauri	2	40	50
94	Least Sandpiper	Calidris minutilla	2	30	45
95	Laughing Gull	Larus atricilla	2	45	65
96	Gull-billed Tern	Sterna nilotica	1	10	10
97	Elegant Tern	Sterna elegans	1	1	1
98	Sandwich Tern	Sterna sandvicensis	2	5	6
99	Royal Tern	Sterna maxima	1	300	300
100	Black Skimmer	Rynchops niger	1	40	40
101	Feral Pigeon	Columba livia	5	N/C	N/C
102	Scaled Pigeon	Patagioenas speciosa	1	1	1
103	Band-tailed Pigeon	Columba fasciata	3	9	17
104	Pale-vented Pigeon	Columba cayennensis	5	6	20
105	Red-billed Pigeon	Columba flavirostris	2	3	6
106	Short-billed Pigeon	Columba nigrirostris	4	4	9
107	Ruddy Pigeon	Columba sunvinacea	1	1	1
108	Mourning Dove	Zenaida macrooura	1	1	1
109	White-winged Dove	Zenaida asiatica	2	180	220
110	Common Ground-dove	Columbina passerina	3	4	7
111	Ruddy Ground-dove	Columbina talpacoti	10	30	140
112	Inca Dove	Columbina inca	5	30	51
113	Blue Ground-dove	Claravis pretiosa	3</